-- Nikon F4s ad 1992, with thanks to Steven E. Frischling.
"The F4 exudes a certain industrial flair which connotes power, simplicity, and versatility, in a very handsome package." - John Albino
"The F4 is the sweetest looking/feeling camera ever made, feels great in your hands, looks fast just sitting on a table. It possesses character, much like a Ferrari." -Paul J. Borja
1. The Nikon F4 and AA Lithium batteries!
2. See John Clements'article "Second-hand Nikon: Built to last" from the British Journal of Photography.
John's very positive article talks about the enduring value of the F4, the 8008/801, and N/F90 Nikon bodies.
2. See Thom Hogan's comments on "the best body Nikon has made." Check out his discussions of Nikon bodies on his VERY helpful website
MORE NEWS: Thom Hogan's new book on Nikon Flash units has a long discussion of flash units and the F4. Check it out on Amazon.com.
EVEN MORE NEWS: The User's Manual for the F4 is available for download (for a fee) at the following sites:
and
Humble Home Page, which also includes the service manuals.
6. Why Purchase an F4 Body Today
7. Comparison Shopping: F3, F4, F5
10. Other Sources for Information on the F4
11. How do I Decide which F4 to Buy
16. F4 Viewing Screens in an F3
17. What Nikon Body is a Good Back-up Body for an F4
18. F4 vs N90s
21. Where to get your F4 repaired
22. How to tell if you are Overinvested in Loyalty to Nikon
23.
What does Moose Peterson carry in his Camera Bag
24.How Can I tell how many times has the shutter of my F4 been fired?
This FAQ is the work of NikonJohn (John N. Wall).
It is dedicated to fans of the Nikon F4 worldwide. I am grateful to all those who have provided other materials on the F4 and whose resources are linked to this site.
Please forward comments, corrections, and proposed additions to me at john_wall@ncsu.edu. I hope to gather together lots of information about the history and capacities of the Nikon F4.
Although the F5 is now Nikon's top-of-the-line camera body, its technological advances have come at the cost of some backwards compatibility with older Nikon lenses and other gear.
The F4 has turned out to have substantial forward compatibility as well as better backwards compatibility. Nikon's new AF-S lenses will AF while mounted on the F4 body, unlike other Nikon AF bodies of the same period. AND the AF-S lenses provide significantly enhanced AF speed when used on the F4 body over other Nikkor lenses when used on the F4. So if you have an F4 and you want fast AF, try the new Nikkor AF-S lenses before you invest in an F5 or F100 body.
2.2. Limits to System wide Compatibility
Unfortunately, Nikon's commitment to keep the F4 body compatible with the widest aray of Nikkor lenses does have its limits. Nikon's new VR (for vibration reduction) lens, the 80-400 mm f4.5-5.6 lens, wil not work with the F4. This lens is only compatible with the current generation of Nikon bodies, the F5, F100, N80, and N65 models. Oh well.
It continues to inspire admiration and affection.
Tony Polson
from rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Tony was asked whether he recommended the F4 over the F100.
His reply: "It's difficult to make recommendations for other people when you don't know exactly what they mean by "a better option". So I'll answer the easier question, which is why I much prefer my F4 to my F100 for the work I do.
Background: Before I had the F4 I used an FA and an F3HP. I changed to using two F4 bodies because I wanted more control over exposure than the F3 offered whilst retaining the FA's ability to use matrix metering with my AIS Nikkors. I recently replaced one F4 with an F100 because I needed faster AF for some freelance sports photography I was doing.
What I like most about the F4 is its user interface. The F4 is a highly sophisticated system camera yet its controls are just as tactile and intuitive as those of any Nikon manual focus SLR. I really like selecting my shutter speeds with a conventional mechanical dial and apertures with an aperture ring on the lens.
At the same time I like the presentation of information that only electronics can provide; here the F4 doesn't disappoint, with a fine, clear and comprehensive in-viewfinder display that beats anything else I've used. There is no top plate LCD; that's because all the information you need is found in the viewfinder.
So the main reason I like the F4 is its unique combination of traditional controls, high tech system features and an in-viewfinder display that means you only rarely need take your eye away from the viewfinder to operate the camera.
Contrast this with the F100, which is a "pocket F5" and bristles with gadgets, custom settings, selectable AF sensors and AF modes, two control wheels and a top plate LCD. Yes, it has great features. Yes, it's ridiculously small and light for a sophisticated Nikon pro camera. Yes, it performs well with better metering than the F4 and far better (faster and less hesitant) AF. But I don't like the user interface.
I realise that this is a matter of personal taste, and that many people will consider my views old fashioned. But my cameras are working tools, not toys to be played with and enjoyed for what they are; I enjoy my cameras (and all my other gear) only for what they allow me to do.
There are too many features on the F100 to fit all the electronic information on to an in-viewfinder display. There are too many features to provide traditional controls which don't have duplicated uses. So the F100 needs an LCD display on the top plate and control wheels that have different functions depending on what mode you are working in, or which custom function you have selected. Many people want this; I don't. I want to know what each control does all the time. I do not want to have to work out what it does in the particular mode I'm in.
I recognise the great strengths of the F100 and its plethora of "F5 features" that are absent on the F4. But the only one of its strengths that I really need is fast AF, and I need that only occasionally. The rest is added complication, and I strongly prefer to keep things simple.
I keep coming back to one thought; is the complication of the F100, F5, EOS 1V, EOS 3 or Maxxum (Dynax) 9 or 7 really necessary?
To me, a successful shot consists of three things: composition, exposure and focusing. These three things are not mutually exclusive, because composition (choice of lens, viewpoint, framing and depth of field), exposure (combination of shutter speed and aperture to give the optimum EV to capture the required detail) and focusing (choice of focus point) all interact. But a good picture needs these three things, and no more.
Does the automation of today's SLRs, whether entry level or advanced system bodies, or anywhere in between, actually contribute to making better pictures? Or does it get in the way of producing good composition, exposure and focusing?
To me, the answers to those questions are clear. And that's why I prefer a more traditional approach, whilst recognising and valuing the more advanced system features that the F4 offers over the F3 and FA.
In my opinion, Nikon SLR body design probably reached its zenith with the F4 and the N8008s (F801s). To me, anything added since then has been largely superfluous, with the sole exception of better AF performance, which is something the F4 badly needs.
Other reasons for liking the F4 include its unparalleled forward and backward compatibility with almost every Nikkor MF and AF lens made from 1959 to 2001, its extremely low vibration and noise, its near-perfect balance, its interchangeable viewfinders, its near 100% view of the final image in the viewfinder, its bulletproof build and massive strength, its reliability and longevity, and such features as mirror lock up and separate AE and AF locks that can be combined if needed.
The bad points are the weight (although it does weigh less than an F3HP/MD-4 combination) and the slow and hesitant AF, except when using AF-S "Silent Wave Motor" lenses, when the AF performance is magically transformed to near-F100 speed and accuracy. {NikonJohn's COMMENT: The weight of the F4 with the MB 20 battery pack isn't all that much more than the weight of the F100. Something to keep in mind.}
This is a highly personal view, which explains why *I* like the F4 better than the F100 for the majority of the work *I* do. But others will have very different views, based on what *they* want or need, and I respect that. Only *you* can decide what best suits *your* photography.
I hope this is useful.
Tony Polson
Check it out! I will be incorporating some of Palacios' material in future revisions of this FAQ.
Also, Jeff Plomley writes to Photo.net that he has found the F4 is better for extreme macro work than the F5. Jeff says that he made "a side-by-side comparison of the F4 vs F5 with MLU engaged in the 1/2-1/15 shutter speed range on subjects that are approximately 2x lifesize . . . using the TC-14B + PN-11 + 105mm/2.8 AFD focussed to lifesize."
With an 8x loop I could discern a sharpness difference with the better of the two being the F4. I am assuming the difference is because in the case of the F4 the lens is stopped down for extreme macro work than the F5. Jeff says that he made "a side-by-side comparison of the F4 vs F5 with MLU engaged in the 1/2-1/15 shutter speed range on subjects that are approximately 2x lifesize . . . using the TC-14B + PN-11 + 105mm/2.8 AFD focussed to lifesize."
With an 8x loop I could discern a sharpness difference with the better of the two being the F4. I am assuming the difference is because in the case of the F4 the lens is stopped down manually when the mirror is locked up, whereas in the F5, the lens is stopped down to the taking aperture just before the shutter is tripped. That is, in the F5, the MLU and depth of field preview switch are decoupled. Presumably, the greater vibration in the F5 originates from the stopping down of the lens before the shutter trips.
Nikon fans will know about the Nikonians website. LOADS of great information!
The Site for Nikonians is also very much worth a visit.
Also check out the great Nikon Links website. Once you get there, click on "F4" for a host of links, including links to two older, stored versions of the F4 FAQ.
For other Comments on the F4 see the links on the Nikon Links Website to The F4. Also, for more user comments, go to the CameraReview user comments for the F4.
The F4 has a foot in both the manual and the autofocus worlds and serves as a bridge between the Nikon F model manual focus legacy represented by the F, the F2, and the F3 models, and the automated future toward which cameras are going.
So the F4 is shifting from being Nikon's pro workhorse model to being the prize of serious amateurs and professionals who appreciate the Nikon F4 mystique and who want to continue using their older lenses.
Serious amateurs will find in the F4 all the features of the historic Nikon professional "F" series cameras at an affordable price. They will also have the opportunity to own a camera with an elegance and quality of finishsecond to none.
The old remark about the sound of slamming a luxury car door applies here. After using an "F" model camera, I'm spoiled. JNW
Here are some comments on the Nikon F4 by current owners:
" I love mine to bits!" -- Jason Hughes
"The F4 is a dream to use; once you pick it up you wouldn't want to put it down." -- Desmond Tan
"I had an F5. I own a F4s, N90s and a F2. I sold My F4s and got a F5. {But] I just didn't like it that much. So much so that before the 30 day trial period was over it went back and I got a F4e and some more fast glass. I didn't need the fast autofocus and I could not use my older non AI lens's. For some a F5 may be the ticket, but it was not for me. The F4 is still Nikon's flagship camera and the F5 is well......second place in My book. As an electronics repair tech I can tell that the electronics is far better in the F4 than the F5. I repair some boards in cameras for a local camera shop and the F4 has it all over the F5 in reliability (opps, just opened a can of worms ;)" -- Lloyd J. Rabanus
"I have grown up with Nikons from Nikkormats through the F2, F3HP,
and the F4s. I truly love the F4s and won't give it up without a fight."
-- Michael E. Maxson"
For other comments on the F4, see the Camera Review page.
4.1. F4 Nomenclature and Body Parts
For a detailed presentation of the body parts, features, and controls
of the F4, see Klaudiusz Modrzewski's outstanding F4 Site. Klaudiusz
in four pages gives front, back, top, and side views of the F4 and
also shows the various choices of backs and finders. Links to the
pages of this site appear below at the appropriate places. Great site,
Klaudiusz!
If you read Germainc languages, you can read more about the F4
on this "foto"
site.
See Stephen Gandy's PROFILE of the F4 as a Classic Camera at his
CameraQuest website.
All users of Nikon cameras should know about GRAYS of WESTMINSTER, a London
store that sells only Nikon gear and thus has lots of material for
Nikon fans.
The Nikon F4 is the 4th body in Nikon's professional line of camera
bodies. Introduced in 1988, the F4 continues the tradition established
by the Nikon F and continued in the F2 and F3.
The image to the left shows an early prototype of the F4, marking
the evolution of Nikon's development from the F3. Note the flash
hot shoe is in the F3 position in this model.
The F4 is known for its durability, ruggedness, and dependability
-- although stories about its stopping bullets and surviving falls
from airplanes may be taken with a grain of salt.
The F4 of course followed the F3, which was introduced in 1980.
Because the F4 (and the F5) represent a fundamentally different
camera from the manual focus F3, the F3 remains in production in
2000.
The F4 was the first Nikon "F" model to integrate auto focus and
TTL flash metering into a professional quality body. Nikon first
got into the AF camera market with a modified version of the F3
(F3 AF) in 1983, but this body incorporated AF as a feature of the
viewfinder, not the body.
The F4 also marks Nikon's first use of ergonomic body design (developed
by the Italian designer Giugiaro) in a pro-level camera. Many people
find the F4 body much easier and more comfortable to hold than other
Nikon bodies, both manual and autofocus.
The choice of grips also makes the F4 body flexible and adaptable
to different uses.
The F4 was marketed as combining Nikon's tradition of reliability
with high performance and a marked degree of flexibility and variety
in the tools it brought to professional photography.
In the F4, Nikon combined AF with traditional camera controls --
knobs and levers to set shutter speed and operate other controls,
for example -- and created a classic of durable, flexible, responsive
camera equipment.
In 1989, the Nikon F4 received the European Camera-of-the-Year
and Camera Grand Prix awards.
See the History of
the Nikon F4 for this account.
With the introduction of the Nikon F5 in 1996, however, the
world has a new standard of comparison. Yet, while the F5 has
now established itself as the world's finest 35 mm camera and
a worthy successor to the F4, the F4 still deserves recognition
for its own unique combination of features and capabilities.
Nikon has suspended production of the F4, but with parts availability
guaranteed for at least 10 years, the guess here is that there
are millions more great pictures to be taken with the F4.
Regardless of the benefits of the F5 or other Nikon bodies,
the F4 is the only Nikon body that combines the essential features
of a serious camera with such conveniences as motor drive, ergonomically
designed shape, vertical shutter release, extensive backward
compatibility with manual Nikkor lenses, and a socket for a
screw-in cable release.
With the introduction of the F5, Nikon has taken a grand step
forward into electronics and automation in 35 mm photography.
This has come, however, at the cost of abandoning manual controls
in favor of wheels, dials, and LED displays. It also has come
at the cost of some compatibility with Nikon's earlier lenses
and accessories.
At a time when many people are "stepping up" to the F5, or
snapping up an F100, many others are holding onto their F4 bodies
or taking advantage of the decline in F4 prices to get into
Nikon F line through a purchase of a new or used F4.
The F4 is an especially good alternative to an 8008, N90/s,
6006, or N70 Nikon body. There is simply no substitute for the
quality and features of a pro level Nikon body. Anyone accustomed
to using Nikon's amateur bodies will experience the difference
immediately.
The quality of the finish, the controls, the flexibility of
the body, the sound of the shutter, and the overall experience
of using the F4 set it apart.
See especially Chris Bitmead's fine review of the F4.(Click
on the NIKON logo)
Chris decided to buy an F4 instead of an N90s; his thoughts
are helpful.
See also Jason
Hughes' review of the F4s and Michael McLennan's comparison
of the 6006, 8008, and F4 bodies. Michael also bought an
F4 instead of an N90s, and has not yet bought an F5. His thoughts
are also helpful.
One basic thing to remember is that the F4 IS a Nikon F
series camera. It has all the features that have earned Nikon
the reputation it happens to have.
The F4 has a 100% viewfinder, mirror lock-up, depth-of-field
preview, and a choice of matrix, center-weighted, and spot
metering. No Nikon camera OTHER than the F series bodies has
these features (including the 8008s and the N90s). The ergonomically
designed body is easier to hold than any Nikon camera other
than the F5
The F4s has all these features plus a grip extension for
vertical holding, with a vertical shutter release. The F4
also has a traditional cable release socket, missing from
the N70 and the N90 AND from the F5.
The F4 has several advantages over the F3. If one wants
an outstanding camera with manual focus, one can hardly do
better than the F3. BUT the F4 brings all the quality of the
F3 PLUS motor drive built in to a more comfortable body to
hold than the F3 with motor drive.
The F4 also has three meters, not one. Even if one does not
want to use matrix metering, the addition of the spot meter
is a distinct advantage. The spot meter on the F4 works in
dimmer light than the spot meter in the 8008s. While the meter
in the F5 may be a significant step forward, the F4 represents
the best of traditional metering technology. Use of this technology
is taught in hundreds of books and courses in photography.
While the N-series Nikons do autofocus a bit faster in more
situations than the F4, the F4 autofocus system is accurate
and fast relative to earlier autofocus systems. In evaluating
autofocus systems, one has to remember that even the finest
autofocus systems can be fooled by blank walls and other very
low contrast situations. The F4 autofocus system has its limits
but those can easily be worked around by choosing the object
on which one autofocuses, or by turning the body slightly
to one side.
Some people (perhaps sports photographers shooting fast
moving athletes) are critical of the F4's autofocusing speed.
But not that many of us really shoot these kinds of events
or if we do really need the speed of the F5 or Canon bodies.
We need to remember that wonderful sports shots were made
for years with manual focus cameras.
Even if one turns off autofocus on the F4 one still has
an electronic rangefinder which assists accurate focusing,
a feature missing from the F3 that is especially for those
of us who are getting older and need help with vision.
The F5 and Canon bodies are lighter and have more spots
for autofocusing. However handy this might be, one has to
ask just how difficult it is to focus using the center of
the viewfinder and then recompose. In addition, no one questions
the ruggedness of the F4 body. AND no one who wears glasses
will use Canon bodies with ease. One simply cannot see the
entire viewing area through any Canon viewfinder while wearing
glasses.
"I haven't regretted buying the F4. Even though it is now
a ten year old design, it provides a set of features that
are matched by few other cameras, even today."
Here is the opinion of one user with both an F4 AND an F5:
"I like my F5, but I still regard the F4s as ol' reliable.
It is a little slower in focusing, and its motor drive does
not reach the same performance level as the F5, but I know
where to find everything by habit. With the F5, I have to
remember NOT to open up for snow, etc. Using the F5 reminds
me of some experiences that I had when initially learning
to fly. It seems under control when everything is straight-and-level,
but there is a lot of machine and a lot of guages to monitor
and it feels like things could get confusing under pressure.
I imagine that with practice it will seem second-nature (the
way that auto-focusing now does). Honesty, the F5 is a bit
over-powered for everyone except sports photographers." MRC
There are contrary views; see Philip Greenspun's Nikon F4: Heavy camera or lightweight
bludgeon? for an example.
Also read all the responses to Phil's review that are listed
at the bottom of that site. many of the points made here are
expressed more eloquently by the many responders. The conclusion
is best voiced by an anonymous user: "The F4 is a world class
camera that can compete against any of its competitors."
My argument always is that one should get the camera that
one looks forward to using, whether its an F4 or whatever.
Otherwise the camera will sit in the camera bag. For me, its
the F4.
When evaluating whether to buy an F4, one needs to examine
the real world needs of the kind of photography one really
does and ask how well the F4 meets those needs. Many of us
will find that the F4 does quite well, quite well indeed.
After all, in an age when we are all encouraged to get more
exercise, what better way to build up arm muscles than to
lift an F4?
Thanks to Don Doucette, the diagrams of the F4 body from
the F4 repair manual are available for viewing or downloading
at the Nikon
F4 Repair Manual
All non-pro Nikons including the 8008/s and the N90/s
bodies, have less than 100% viewfinders; you see less than
what you get on the slide or negative. Bodies are described
in terms of the percentage you see of what you will get.
Thus a viewfinder may be a 90-92% viewfinder, for example.
Why aren't all viewfinders 100%? The pragmatic explanation
is that slide mounts and prints crop a bit of the image
anyway, so you really don't need 100% since you don't really
get 100%, and that 100% viewfinders are more expensive to
make.
100% viewfinders are generally available only on pro-line
bodies in all camera lines.
A. Depth-of-field Preview is the ability to stop the lens
down to the preset shooting aperture while you are composing
your shot.
The F4 does this when you press a button on the right
side of the body near the lens.
When you stop the lens down, then you can see how much
of the image is in focus at that aperture. Thus you can
see how deep or shallow is your field of sharp focus.
In Manual Mode and Aperture Priority Mode, You can also
change apertures manually and see the effect of a larger
or smaller aperture on Depth-of-Field.
Some people suggest this is a less-than-useful feature
because when you stop down to the smaller apertures (f 8
- f 22 or f 32) the image becomes quite dark and the actual
depth of the field of sharp focus becomes more difficult
to see.
For you to use depth of field preview effectively, your
eye has to adjust to the reduced amount of light coming
through the viewfinder.
Here are two tips to help your eye adjust so you can see
actual depth of field:
1. Set the camera in Manual or Aperture Priority Mode
and stop the lens down to the desired aperture manually,
watching depth of field change expand as you stop down.
2. AND/OR Shield your eye from the surrounding light by
wearing a hat or cap (the brim or bill shields the top of
the camera) and/or cupping your hand around your eye (your
hand shields your eye from surrounding light) and/or cover
your head and the camera with a cloth to shield your eye.
All these techniques block light from you eye other than
the light coming in through the viewfinder, and enable your
eye to adjust to that light more quickly.
When doing close-up work, you may also find it beneficial
to carry a small but intense flashlight to illuminate the
subject when you stop down to check depth of field. This
adds some light, especially at the edges, and permits more
careful checking of the sharpness of the image.
A. Mirror lock-up is the ability to flip up the mirror
and hold it there independent of releasing the shutter.
This prevents any vibration resulting from the mirror action
affecting the sharpness of the picture.
This is achieved on the F4 by moving the lever on the
body made for this purpose. The mirror swings up and stays
there until you move the lever back.
Obviously, the camera must be mounted on a tripod and
the picture composed before the mirror is locked up; otherwise
you do not know what you are shooting, exactly.
The value of mirror lock-up is debated; most people think
it is not helpful at fast shutter speeds because the mirror
action is over and the picture made before any vibrations
would shake the body and affect picture sharpness.
The value of mirror lock-up is most seen at slower shutter
speeds in the 1/15th to 1/2 second range, where many pictures
are taken with slow, fine-grained film.
Some bodies have a simulated mirror lock-up in that one
can set the timer, which will swing up the mirror and hold
it up until the picture is made some several seconds later
(presumably after the vibrations have stopped).
On the Nikon F4, when the mirror is locked up the lens
is stopped down. Thus when the shutter curtain opens the
lens is already at its taking aperture and this does not
become a factor in either delay time or additional induced
vibrations. When using IR beams at night (or in the studio)
this is a nice feature to have since minimization of all
delay times with respect to opening the shutter is very
important.
MLU is not very useful except in photographing stationary
subjects in uniform and unchanging light; otherwise, one
is stuck with the image of a subject several seconds after
one has decided to take the picture and the subject could
have moved or the light changed.
The F4 has a classic, reliable, true mirror lock-up mechanism.
Other AF Nikon bodies do not have mirror lock up because,
Nikon says, they depend on the mirror to help keep light
away from the film until the shutter is opened. Only top-of-the-line
Nikon bodies likes the F4 and the F5 have double shutters
that are light tight and thus can accommodate having the
mirror flipped up in advance of the shutter's being activated.
"Backwards compatibility" refers to the ability of the
F4 body to be used with 99% of the full line of Nikkor lenses
ever made, including lenses made over 40 years ago.
A. One can use almost all Nikkor F-mount lenses with the
F4. The F-mount on the F4 has a fold-back coupling pin that
allows use of pre-1977 non-AI lenses with the F4. This is
in addition to Nikkor AI-S, AI, and modified AI lenses,
as well as all AF and AI-P Nikkors. Interestingly, the F4
is the only Nikon body other than the F3AF that can use
the Nikkor AF lenses that Nikon made to use with the F3AF.
These are the AF 80mm f2.8 and a AF 200mm f3.5 IF ED and
the TC 16 teleconverter. Now THAT is serious backwards compatibility!"
For Leonard Foo's helpful chart of lenses compatible with
the F4 body, see the Compatibility
Chart on the "Photography in Malasia" website.
With AF, P, AI-S, and AI lenses, all metering systems --
Matrix, Center-Weighted, and Spot -- all work.
Metering available with modified AI lenses includes Spot
and Center-Weighted but not Matrix.
Metering with non-AI lenses include both Spot and Center-Weighted,
but metering has to take place with the lens stopped down
to the shooting aperture.
Can Nikon's newer "D" and the AF-I and AF-S lenses be
used with the F4?
A. The F4 can be used with "D" lenses but the information
about distance to the subject that is supplied to the body
by these lenses cannot be used by the F4. Nevertheless,
this feature basically is most helpful in flash, and the
TTL flash system in the F4 was the class of its day and
remains of exceptional quality.
The F4 can also be used with the new AF-I and AF-S lenses
for autofocus. Nikon engineers build a bit of backwards
compatibility into these lenses to help sustain the usefulness
of the F4.
The F4 body is not just a camera body. It is the heart
of a photographic system. The basic body accommodates detachable
(and interchangeable) film backs, viewfinders, and grips
as well as lenses.
The F4 comes in three basic models, distinguished by differing
grips which double as battery packs.
View of the front
of the F4 with the different grip/battery compartments.
Back
and Side Views of the F4.
The F4s is the basic F4 with the MB-21 high speed battery
pack; it holds 6 AA batteries and has a grip extension with
a vertical shutter release built-in. This is the F4 familiar
to US shooters; it is the only model sold off the shelf
in the USA.
The F4, F4s, and F4e are identical except for the battery
pack in use; that means you can change battery packs and
change the F4 from one configuration to another. some folks
like to have an MN-20 in addition to the MB-21 and/or MB-23
to make the body lighter and smaller.
All the different battery packs are available from Nikon.
A. Nikon Professional Services marketed for a while a
special model of the F4s that was sold only to photographers
registered as members of NPS. This was called the F4s Professional
version. An NPS member could order the camera through a
Nikon Service Center. The F4s P probably reflected the need
of professional sports photographers. On the F4s P model,
the shutter speed dial lists speeds of 1/350s, 1/750s (between
the 1/250, 1/500s and 1/1000 marks) but it lacks the full
2, and 4 sec speeds. The F4s P version also came with a
special Nikon Professional Services neck strap.
B&H sold the last of its new F4 bodies back in the summer
of 2000. With the end of new F4 bodies available from B&H,
we have come to the end of an era.
Other dealers in the USA and abroad may still have new
F4 bodies in stock.
A recent correspondent (January 2000) reports from Japan
that Sanpou camera in the Meguro ward (section) of Tokyo
has new and used F4 bodies at good prices.
See the B&H Website
for current pricing for Nikon USA and grey market F4s
bodies.
Clean used F4 bodies also bring high prices. See the
KEH Camera Brokers for
current prices on used F4 bodies.
(Revised July 22, 2002)
Recently on the F4 mailing list Kevin reported the following:
I have been watching F4s prices on ebay for several weeks.
Recent prices are in the following range:
$500--beaters
$500-600--early serials with moderate to heavy use
$600-700--early and mid serials in 80-90% condition
$700-800--mid and late serials in very good condition
$800-1000--late serials in like new condition
Thanks, Kevin, for that information! I own 2 F4 bodies,
both of which I bought used.
I would try hard not to pay more than $1000 for a mint
F4s from the owner. I would not want to pay a dealer more
than $1250. But supply, opportunity, and desire may take
the price either way.
An F4e would be more expensive since they are harder
to find; if I wanted an F4e I would go for an F4s and
look for a MB-23 battery pack.
Yes. I would want to buy a body with a serial number
starting with 24 or 25 if possible. The last models produced
by Nikon had serial numbers in the low 26 range. A really
clean one with a 23 serial number would also be OK.
This is not to say that an earlier production body would
not give good service; this body is tough enough to give
years of great service. But one would want to get one
that had at least some of the modifications Nikon made
to the body that would be important to you.
See the discussion below about changes
in the F4 during production.
I would also try to get one owned by an amateur rather
than a pro because some pros really work their gear hard
and test Nikon's vaunted strength and durability.
A. See The Nikon
USA Page
See also Don Ferrario's Nikon Links Page and Neal Vaughan's Nikon
Links for extensive lists of Nikon-related links.
See also
F4 Nomenclature
Comparison of the F4 with the 6006 and 8008(s) bodies
The F4 Page in the B&H Electronic On-Line Catalogue
for further information.
A. See The Nikon
Lens Test Summary.
See also Bjorn
Rorslett's Lens Tests and David Ruether's famous Nikkor lens
test site.
A. There are many many sources of information about Nikon
gear on the Web. See for example
the
Tech Photo site for a long list of Nikon links.
The rec.photo Nikon FAQ is at
http://home.hkstar.com/~peteln/bobby/nikon/
NIKON JAPAN
http://www.mitsubishi.co.jp/companies/COMP40E/08.html
NIKON UNITED KINGDOM
http://www.yingtong.demon.co.uk/nikon/current.htm
NIKON USA
NIKON USA's F4 PAGE
http://www.nikonusa.com/products/photography/bg/slr/F4s/F4s.html
NIKON AUSTRALIA
http://www.maxwell.com.au/photo.html
NIKON AUSTRALIA's F4 page
http://www.maxwell.com.au/photo/cameras/slr/f4.html
The F4 is available in three models, the F4, the F4s
and the F4e. The F4 is the basic body with the MB 20 battery
pack, holding 4 AA batteries in the right grip. The F4s
is the basic body with the MB 21 battery pack, holding
6 AA batteries, three in the right hand grip and 3 in
the grip extension on the bottom of the camera body.
The F4e is the basic F4 with the addition of the MB 23
grip extension. This grip extension is a bit heavier than
the MB 21, but it combines the right hand grip with a
larger vertical grip.
The MB 23 grip holds all 6 AA batteries in the grip
extension, and can also use the optional rechargeable
NiCd Battery Unit MN-20.
The F4s is the standard model of the F4 available in
the USA.
Most people in the USA have the F4s, since that was
the only version sold in the USA off the shelf. The other
two battery packs are available, however, and some people
find the MB 20 pack useful because it makes the body lighter
and easier to handle in some situations. Other people
find that the larger grip of the MB-23 fits their hands
more comfortably.
The trade-off is in film advance speed; the F4 will
advance film at the rate of 4 frames a second, while the
F4s and the F4e will hit 5.7 frames a second. Battery
life is shorter in the F4 also; 4 AA's in the MB 20 are
good for 30 rolls of film while 6 AA's in the F4s and
F4e are good for up to 90 rolls (the numbers are Nikon's;
your mileage may vary).
Mel Hughes' experience with the different versions of
the F4 may be helpful. He writes:
"I purchased my F4S in 1991. I soon added an MB-20 which
is very useful in situations where the smaller camera
profile and weight are a consideration carrying only 4
AA batteries(i.e. work on a PB series bellows or carrying
in confined quarters or around my neck for long periods
of time.)
In less time than it takes to write this I grew tired
of the two piece battery storage in the MB-21 although
I generally preferred its vertical release and ergonomics
to the MB-20.
I purchased an MB-23 with two ni-cad packs and recharger
unit in 1993. The ni-cad packs were OK and I still had
the vertical grip with a little bit different electrical
connection arrangement for external power input and such.
But added to the ease of sliding one battery pack in and
out of the compartment, I had all the features of the
F4s without the annoying two piece compartment.
Later, I added an MS-23 battery holder which allows me
to use 6 AA batteries, either ni-cad or alkaline, for
those times when accessing a Nikon recharger is impossible
or impractical.
In fact, I liked this arrangement so much, I sold the
Nikon ni-cads and rechargers as well as the MB-21.
By all means, get an F4e, an accessory MB-20, an additional
MS-23 or two, and your choice of ni-cad or alkaline power
and you will be well served by a versatile, durable, convenient
power system."
The F4 can also be fitted with the External Power Regulator
MB-22. This is a grip that looks exactly like the MB-21
but incorporates as the bottom portion the unit MB-22B
which allows the F4 to be hooked up to the AC/DC Converter
MA-4 by way of the External Power cord MC-11.
This allows the F4 to be operated by standard residential/commercial
electrical service and is designed to facilitate operation
of the camera when it will be used in one place for long
periods of time, such as in a studio.
In the spring of 1997, Nikon Japan announced that they
would stop taking orders for the F4 by the end of May
1997.
On February 26, 1997, the following message appeared
on rec.photo:
Subject: Nikon F4 The End
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:12:52 +0000
From: James Grove
The serial number of each F4 is found on the upper right
back of the body, just below the "R1" rewind button. The
serial number is a 7-digit number printed in white just
to the right of the word "Nikon." USA models have the
letters "US" engraved on the body in the space between
the word "Nikon" and the serial number.
A. The F4 was one of the first Nikon bodies to offer
advanced flash capabilities. The SB 24 flash unit was
created to tke advantage of all the neat tricks the F4
would do with flash. All these features were retained
in the SB 25 and SB 26 flash units. More recent Nikon
flash units hav more limited utility with the F4 because
current Nikon bodies set features like rear curtain sync
on the body rather than on the flash unit.
BOTTOM LINE: For fullest use of the F4's flash capabilities,
get an SB 24/25/26 unit. HOW TO CHOOSE: The F4 purist
will want the SB 24 because it was made t5o work with
the F4. BUT I own the SB 25 -- it adds two helpful features
to the full range of features found on the SB 24. One
is the ability to use a 20 mm lens with flash (the SB
24 is limited to a 24 mm lens) and the other is a small
white bounce card that is stored when not needed in the
flash head. This allows you to use bounce flash and also
direct some of the light from the flash to the subject
for the all-important catchlight.
For more information on flash with the F4 see Thom Hogan's
fine book ont he Nikon flash system, or read Moose Peterson's flash tutorial.
FLASH with the SB 23 flash unit: THe SB 23 flash unit
is a small, lightweight flash unit that provides TTL flash
with the F4. It is sorta like having a built-in flash
unit ont he F4 body. But its usefulness is limited by
its lacking the ability to reduce output for fill flash.
The solution to this problem is to set the F4 body on
MANUAL and meter for ambient light. Establish an appropriate
exposure for ambient light and set your shutter speed
and aperture accordingly. THEN adjust the film speed dial
to increase or decrease flash output. If you want to provide
1-2 stops less light from the flash for fill, just set
the film speed dial to read that you are shooting 1-2stop
faster film than you are. Tis will trick the TTL meter
in the camera to give you less light from the flash.
A. The F4 has undergone a number of performance enhancement
modifications since its introduction.
The first F4's serial number was 2000201. Moose Peterson,
in his NIKON SYSTEM HANDBOOK ((3rd edition) lists several
modifications to the F4 made early in the production run,
between the eaarliest models and serial number 2180000.
These include
1. changes to the shutter speed dial -- clearer lettering,
a higher unlocking button, and greater tension.
This may have taken place between 2115101 and 2146957.
2. a change to the switch on the viewfinder that sets
metering modes; the protrusion that allows one to turn
this switch has been lowered in profile to avoid unintended
shift from one metering mode to another.
This change took place AFTER 2146957.
The original switch has a protrusion to help turn the
switch that sticks up above the top of the switch where
it can catch things and cause the metering to change unintentionally.
The new switch has a protrusion as well, but it extends
"out" rather than up and is much less likely to be moved
accidentally. The spring tension on this switch has also
been increased. This ALSO took place after 2146957.
Pictures of the original metering switch can be seen
in THE NIKON COMPENDIUM, p. 30.
3. the spring on the release lever for opening the back
is stronger.
4. the battery warning responds at a lower voltage.
According to Walter Pietsch, Nikon made additional modifications
in the F4 since its introduction in 1988. They are
#1) Some strengthening of the metal body, undetectable
to the eye.
#2) The original F4s had paint used on the shutter speed
numbers that peeled and flaked off. If this hasn't happened
to yours, then you've got the later model. This change
may be included in Moose's change #1 above.
#3) Finder has double security to be removed - you need
to press the release button until finder is 3/4 off. Moose
describes this change (NIKON HANDBOOK, 4th edition) as
use of a "double detente on the finder release lever."
The release button on the older model basically looks
the same, but it works differently. On the older model
as soon as you press the release button the finder is
fully loose and can fall off.
Lawrence Ang reports that this change had been made
by the s/no 2301000 body.
#4) There is a small rubber "tooth" that sticks out
at the top of the right-hand grip and rests on the user's
middle finger. This gives more support and a secure confident
feeling for your right hand.
Lawrence Ang (6/5/97) reports that this "tooth" was
missing from the original model MB-20 grip as well, and
was added later to that grip. (Nikon must have liked this
feature; it was added to the design of the 6006 and other
models).
#5) The pin which detects whether the back is open or
not was initially made of metal and is now made out of
white plastic.
#6) The battery switch inside the MB-21 grip is now
labeled "Ni-Cd" rather than "KR-AA." #7) The finder now
has an extra hole in the hot shoe for the security pin
of the SB25 and SB 26 flash units. This last change seems to be most recent. It appears
in F4 bodies with serial numbers after 2500000, but does
not appear in bodies with serial numbers between 2400000
and 2500000.
Once this feature had been added, however, it spread
to other Nikon bodies in production in that era. Bodies
late in the 6006 production run also had this feature,
for example.
In the NIKON HANDBOOK, 4th edition, Moose identifies
one more change since serial number 2180000, a shift from
a semi-gloss finish to a matte finish for the body and
the introduction of a thicker, rubberized back for the
camera, both intended to improve "gripability."
FLASH! NEW INFORMATION! UPDATE on Above Information as
of 3.6.00
Recent correspondence from Dr. Lim Kok-Hoo, an avid Nikon
collector with 6 F4 bodies, suggests the following about
changes in the F4 design from review of his current holdings:
1. Changes to the shutter speed dial and changes in
the viewfinder release switch (addition of double detente)
as described by Moose and others must have taken place
very early, before model number 21xxxxx.
If it is true that the numbers on the early shutter
speed dials are painted on, then they must be the very
early ones, possibly #20xxxxx. The double detente on the
viewfinder release switch must also have been added by
#21xxxxx, not just by #23xxxxx as reported by Lawrence
Ang.
2. Changes to the Metering modes switch must have taken
place after #216xxxx, not #2146957 as previously believed.
3. The upper part of the vertical grip of the MB20 and
MB21 is straight with no "tooth" up to #2161358 and possibly
beyond that. The earliest grip Kok Hoo Lim reports seeing
is a body numbered #2276xxx. Probably the change started
with #22xxxxx.
4. Battery type indicator.
NiCd batteries are indicated as KRAA in the battery
switch inside the vertical part of the grip as well as
at the battery tester in all his cameras up to #216xxxx
and as NiCd in #2276xxx. So probably this change happened
at about #22xxxxx.
5. The changes that Moose mentions in his 4th Ed book
about the semi-gloss to matte finish and the thicker rubberised
back could not be substantiated when comparing his 3 early
cameras with the three later cameras.
Part of the ongoing work of this FAQ is to identify
when in the model run of the F4 each of these changes
was made. So, please examine your F4 bodies and forward
the results so we can be more precise about these changes.
So far, only models with serial numbers beginning with
25 seem to have all of these modifications.
Walter Pietsch writes,
In contrast to the F, F2, and F3 cameras which have
been assembled totally at Mito plant in Tokyo, the F4
is so complex that several modules are assembled at special
plants. The shutter unit is developed at Ohi plant (also
Tokyo, original assembling streets), the finder comes
from the Tochigi plant north of Tokyo which is specialized
on optics. At this plant, most of the Nikkors are assembled
too. From Sendai plant (northern Japan) come the electronic
modules. This assembling street provides the most advanced
laser and electronic technologies. Before all different
modules are sent to the final assemblage at Mito, each
one is controlled and must be absolutely error free. At
Mito, quality control follows. Imagine that all mechanic
and electronic switch combinations and commands exceed
a number of 42 millions!
johnchap@erols.com writes that Nikon F4 serial numbers
started out at 2,100,000 in 9/88 and finished up at about
2,580,000 in early 1997. UPDATE ON THIS INFORMATION IN
2001. Many people report having or seeing F4 bodies with
2,600,000 serial numbers, and there is a report of someone
having seen one with a 27xxxxx on it. This latter report
is unsubstantiated, but there is good evidence that Nikon's
production of the F4 ran into the 26xxxxx range.
This means that Nikon manufactured over 500,000 F4 bodies
during the run of this camera.
One can "roughly" estimate the production date of an
F4 by subtracting 2100000 from the SN# and then dividing
the result by 5000 which gives you the number of months
since the introduction in September 1988. (5000 is the
number of F4 units produced per month according to a Nikon
press release in 12/88).
A simpler way of doing this computation is to take your
F4 camera body's serial number, subtract 2,100,000 from
it, and divide the result by 60,000 (the approximate number
of F4 bodies Nikon made each year), then add the result
to 1989.
Note: Walter says that this process of calculation does
not work for F4 bodies for which the serial number starts
with 22. Unfortunately Walter does not say WHY this calculation
does not work for the early bodies -- perhaps Nikon was
making bodies faster in the early years of production
Production also slowed down in the last years of manufacture,
so the rule-of-thumb guide is not as accurate for later
models.
Many users report that the F4 screens fit very nicely
on an F3. There is a difference in the metal frame (the
F3 screens have a hole which fits a plug in the body)
but when you put the F4 screen in, the plug goes inside
the body (spring behind it). No mechanical stress, everything
fits like charm.
Be careful, however. Some users report that the use of
F4 screens in the F3 works great for them, claiming that
the F4 screens are brighter than the F3 screens they replace.
Other users, however, report problems with accuracy of
focus on the F3 when an F4 screen is used in an F3 --
and when an F3 screen is used in an F4. (Although I have
trouble imagining why one would want to make that kind
of swap.)
This potential problem was reported in a review of the
F4 in Popular Photography in 1989.
Ed Alban forwards this blurb from a June 1989 Pop. Photo
12-page test report on the F4:
"Fourteen interchangeable screens are available for
the F4s, but unfortunately they're not compatible with
those for the F3, even though F4s screens do fit the F3
and vice versa. When we tried using F4s screens in the
F3, we detected a pronounced focusing error and the same
occurred the other way around. Keep the two screen systems
separate."
So F3 owners, proceed into this swap with caution. Or,
trade up to an F4, an even better manual focus camera
than the F3.
The F3 shares the basic "F" model features with the F4,
including 100% viewfinder, DOF preview, and MLU, and has
all the "F" model quality one is used to with the F4.
Liabilities include a less sophisticated TTL flash setup
and a narrower range of shutter speeds.
The 6006 is smaller, lighter, has built-in flash, has
an AF system comparable to the F4, and best of all also
takes a screw-in cable release just like the F4.
The 8008s model has the same AF module as the F4, has
DOF Preview, and multiple exposure built into the body,
and 1/8000 shutter speed. It also takes exposures up to
30 seconds. But it requires an electronic shutter release
for remote picture taking.
However, if you want to use the 8008s and not buy an
electronic cable release, get Nikon Accessory MR 3, which
is a screw-in cable release socket that fits into a socket
on the 8008/s body on the front and permits use of a cable
release with the 8008/s.
The F4 is well sealed, but not designed for underwater
use. However, aftermarket manufacturers make underwater
housings for the F4.
See the Nexus America site for
more information.
The F5 beats the F4 in AF speed so it is the choice
of sports photographers. But millions of sports photographs
have been made with the F4. For a discussion, see the Sports Photo site for
a comparison.
A Comparison Between the F4s and the N90s By "MJJONES.US.ORACLE.COM" <MJJONES@us.oracle.com>
Moose395@qnet.com
You can see some of his pictures and his US mail address at
http://lsnt5.lightspeed.net/~calm/News.htm
Moose literally wrote the book on the F4 -- authoring one of the
GUIDES to the F4. See the book list below.
Galen also has an email address: Galen@mountainlight.com
The basic guide to Nikon cameras is THE NIKON SYSTEM HANDBOOK, by B.
"Moose" Peterson, which has just appeared in a newly revised and updated
edition (revised, 5th edition, 1999). This edition of Moose's book
contains a history of the
Nikon company, a brief description of every Nikon body or lens produced
through 1999 (through
the F100), and discussions of flashes and accessories. This is the
essential book for every serious Nikon shooter.
Moose also wrote NIKON LENSES (1995).
Another helpful guide is ADVANCED NIKON SYSTEM (1994), by Michael Huber
and Joseph Meehan. This guide, in the Magic Lantern Guidebook series,
covers the same ground, basically, as Peterson's book, but emphasizes
currently-available cameras (at least at the time of publication, which
was before the N50 and N70 bodies came out). It also discusses available
lenses and accessories.
Yet another helpful guide is THE NIKON COMPENDIUM (1993), by Rudolf
Hillebrand and Hans-Joachim Hauschild. This guide is in the Hove
Guidebook series and includes descriptions of gear up through the
introduction of the N90 body and the SB 25 flash.
See also Paul Comon &
Art Evans, NIKON DATA (1990)
All these books have extensive discussions of the F4.
See also Carl Shipman, HOW TO SELECT AND USE NIKON SLR CAMERAS (1982)
The Hove and Magic Lantern Guidebook series both contain books on the
F4.
They also include
books on the SB-24/25/26 flash units, on the Nikon system, and on
older model Nikon cameras.
Each of these books includes descriptions of all features of the
equipment and instructions about
how to use them. Often, the discussions are fuller and more detailed than
the official Nikon
instruction manuals. The camera books also include information on
appropriate lens choices.
Many of these guide books were written by Michael Huber.
What we really need, of course, is a guidebook to the F4 databack!
Paul Harcourt Davies, THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CLOSE-UP AND MACRO
PHOTOGRAPHY (1998)
Kevin Adams. NORTH CAROLINA WATERFALLS: WHERE TO FIND THEM,
HOW TO
PHOTOGRAPH THEM (1994).
_______________. WILDFLOWERS OF THE SOUTHERN APPLACHIANS: HOW TO IDENTIFY
AND PHOTOGRAPH THEM (1996)
Craig & Nadine Blacklock. PHOTOGRAPHING WILDFLOWERS: TECHNIQUES
FOR THE ADVANCED AMATEUR AND PROFESSIONAL (1987)
Charles Campbell. THE BACKPACKER'S PHOTOGRAPHY HANDBOOK: HOW TO TAKE
GREAT WILDERNESS PICTURES WHILE HIKING,
CLIMBING, AND SKIIING (1994) This is a great book for the
F4 owner. Charles discusses use of the F4 and 8008s camera
bodies in detail.
Laurie Campbell. GUIDE TO BIRD AND NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY (1990)
B. "Moose" Peterson. THE NIKON GUIDE TO WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY (1994)
Galen Rowell. GALEN ROWELL'S VISION: THE ART OF
ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHY
(1993)
____________. MOUNTAIN LIGHT: THE SEARCH FOR THE DYNAMIC
LANDSCAPE (1986)
_____________. MY TIBET (1990)
_____________. THE ART OF ADVENTURE (1989)
____________. MOUNTAINS OF THE MIDDLE KINGDOM:EXPLORING
THE HIGH PEAKS OF CHINA AND TIBET (1983)
____________. MOUNTAINS OF THE MIDDLE KINGDOM:EXPLORING
THE HIGH PEAKS OF CHINA AND TIBET (1983)
THE YOSEMITE (1989)
IN THE THRONE ROOM OF THE MOUNTAIN GODS
(1977)
HIGH AND WILD: A MOUNTAINEER'S WORLD (1979)
ALASKA: IMAGERY OF THE COUNTRY (1981)
John Shaw. THE NATURE PHOTOGRAPHER'S COMPLETE GUIDE TO PROFESSIONAL
FIELD TECHNIQUES (1984)
CLOSEUPS IN NATURE: THE PHOTOGRAPHER'S GUIDE TO
TECHNIQUES IN THE FIELD (1987)
JOHN SHAW'S LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY:
PROFESSIONAL
TECHNIQUES FOR SHOOTING SPECTACULAR SCENICS (1994)
FOCUS ON NATURE: THE CREATIVE PROCESS BEHIND
MAKING GREAT PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE FIELD (1991)
John Shaw is the great teacher of Nikon photography -- his books are
not to be missed!
Larry West (with Julie Ridl). HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH INSECTS AND SPIDERS (1994)
____________________________. HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH BIRDS
(1994)
A. See the On Line
Guide to Nikon Repair sites for the answer.
From: "C.L.Zeni" YOU MIGHT BE A NIKON GEEK IF:
* You have more than one 'E' grid focusing screen
* You have the exact factory screwmount lens hood for every Nikon lens
you own
* You have a finder illuminator clip for your F2A
* You have all the battery pack options for your F4
* You have actually used an action finder
* You are depressed because you already own every Nikon lens you can
afford
* You get almost as excited over a Nikon F as over a Highliner F
* You believe Canon needs an extra N and makes HO diesel parts
* You think interchangeable finders are cool
* You know why its not a good idea to change the battery on a loaded
motor-drive F2
* You know what NAI, AI'd, AI, AIS, AF, AF-D, and AF-I mean, and care
* Your F waistlevel finder will fit your F2 but you buy the F2
waistlevel anyway so the nameplate will match
* You have PX625 mercury batteries in the freezer for your FtN meter
* You know the difference between a Photomic, Photomic T, Tn, and Ftn
meter
* You know what "Nippon Kogaku" means.
* You have duplicate items - both with and without "Nippon Kogaku"
* You have little black plastic finder caps for almost all your F
finders
* You bid $10 on Ebay for a little black plastic finder cap... and lost
* You can watch a TV show with a motor drive Nikon being used and
identify the camera and motor drive by its sound
* You know what to use black electrical tape for when on the road with
your camera bag
A. Moose Peterson literally wrote the book on Nikon cameras (NIKON SYSTEM
HANDBOOK, 4th edition) and on the F4 (for Magic Lantern Guides).
Moose used to carry a couple of F4 bodies in his camera bag. Now, he has
started carrying F5 bodies.
Nevertheless, Moose's Camera Bag is a fascinating guide to how a
professional nature photographer prepares himself for work in the
field.
So, check out
"The F4 is an amazing body. Very intuitive and solidly built." --
Sandy Dong
"F4 rules -- OK" -- Jaco Mostert
"I was out this evening before leaving for work, down on my knees,
peering in the viewfinder of my F4, looking at the beauty of this year's
Siberian Iris blooms through my even older 200 AI Micro trying to see
how I might capture some of the lovely rain drops that were still sitting
on the petals on some Ilford Delta 100. I sometimes go for weeks without
using the F4, carrying the N90s for weight and space reasons. But the
moment it comes out of the bag, into my hands, I am immediately reminded
how much I love this camera. (Reminds me of an old James Taylor song,
"Me and My Guitar.) It has been eight years since I sold my Hasselblad
and bought this F4. If my previous experience with "F" cameras holds
true, I should be repeating this maneuver for another 17 years or so."
-- Mel Hughes
"It's a real nice camera for making photographs if not to sit on top
of your desk and admire." -- Chris Gonzaga
"It's the best investment I've made in any photo equipment! It's the
best camera I've used to date and I don't think I'll need another camera
for a long while." -- Hoyin Lee
"The Nikon F4 -- Best OVERALL camera Nikon has ever made" -- Steve
Crist
"God bless those F4's. They just keep going, and going, and going!"
-- C. K. Holter
"The F4 is Nikon's best manual camera." -- Rich
"I think this is a great camera with pretty much all one would ever
need" -- Paul Cavka
Go to Contents Listing.
4. Useful Sites for F4 Users
4.2. F4 Models
The GRAYS of WESTMINSTER GAZETTE has an article entitled F4 MODELS
by Tony Munday which provides helpful information about the F4 and
its various manifestations. Click on "Articles & Reference," then
click on "F4 Models."
Go to Contents Listing.
4.3. A Brief History of the F4 Body
This image shows a fully developed
F4 prototype from 1988.
NIKKOR CLUB MAGAZINE, a publication of the Japanese Nikon Club,
has published an official Nikon history of the development of the
F4 camera.
Go to Contents Listing.
5.Review: The Nikon F4 Camera Body Today
The Nikon F4 camera has been for a decade the standard by which
professional cameras have been measured. Regardless of the merits
or faults of the Canon EOS 1n, for example, the Nikon F4 remains
the body against which Canon or other top-of-the-line camera bodies
have been found to be better or worse, slower or faster, more
or less able.
Go to Contents Listing.
6. Why Purchase an F4 Today?
Go to Contents Listing.
7. Comparison Shopping in the Nikon Line;
or, what are the advantages of the F4 over the F3 and other
Nikon bodies? Why should one pause before investing $2750 in
the F5?
Before deciding that one can't live without whatever increases
in autofocus ability come with the F5 and the "N" series of
Nikon bodies, one needs to assess the real-world situations
in which one takes pictures and the camera features best suited
to such photos. One has to decide whether the faster autofocus
provided by the N70 and the N90s are more important for one's
most common picture-taking than a 100% viewfinder, depth-of-field
preview, and mirror lock-up. One has to decide just how much
one wants to invest $80 in the MC-12A remote shutter release.
More Testimonials
Here is the opinion of someone who chose an F4 over an N90s:
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8. Features of the F4 Body
8.1 Q. What is a 100% viewfinder? A.
A viewfinder through which you see approximately what you
will get on a slide or negative, thus you see 100% of what
you will get in your picture.
8.2 Q. What is Depth-of-Field Preview
and why is it important?
8.3 Q. What is Mirror Lock-up?
8.4 Q. What is backwards compatibility?
8.5 Q. What Nikkor lenses can one
use with the F4?
8.6 Q. What metering systems are available
for which lenses?
8.7 Q. What about forward compatibility?
8.8 Q. What are the Different Models
of the F4? Or, what is the difference between the F4, the
F4s, and the F4e?
The basic F4 has the MB 20 battery pack; it holds 4 AA batteries.
The F4e is the
basic F4 with the MB-23 multi-power battery pack; it holds
6 AA batteries OR the rechargeable NiCad battery pack MN-20
and has a grip extension built-in (bigger than the MB-21)
with a vertical shutter release.
OK, then -- What is an F4s P model?
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9 Where and How to Buy an F4 Today
Q. Is the F4 still available new?
Although the F4 is no longer in production, remaining
new F4 bodies sell today for almost as much as new F5 bodies.
Q. What would be a fair price for a very good used F4s
and the F4e?
Q. Would there be any part/function to inspect closer
than others on a used F4s or F4e when considering the
purchase of a used one?
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10. Other Sources for F4 Information
Q. What are some other WWW resources for learning about
the F4?
Q. What lenses should I use with my F4?
Q. How can I find out about the entire Nikon line, of
which the F4 is a part?
corporate home pages include
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11. Q. How do I decide which model of
the F4 to Buy? How do I choose from among the models
of the F4 that are available?
Which model F4 should I get?
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Q. Is the F4 still in production?
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Q. How do I know if my F4 is a Nikon USA model?
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12. Q. What are the specifications
of the F4?
Nikon F4 Specifications
Type of camera:
Integral-motor autofocus 35mm single lens reflex.
Picture format:
24mm x 36mm standard 35mm film format.
Lens mount:
Nikon bayonet type.
Lenses:
Lenses with Nikon F mount with some limitations.
Focus modes:
Autofocus and manual with electronic rangefinder.
Autofocus modes:
Single servo AF with focus priority and continuous
servo AF with release priority.
AF detection system:
TTL phase detection system - Nikon Advanced AM200
module.
AF detection range:
EV minus 1 to EV 18 at ISO 100.
AF lock:
Possible in single servo AF mode once a stationary
subject is in focus as long as the shutter button
is depressed; in continuous servo AF, focus can be
locked with AF-L button.
Electronic rangefinder:
Available in manual focus mode with an AF Nikkor
and other AI-type Nikkor lenses with a maximum aperture
of f/5.6 or faster.
Exposure metering:
Matrix metering, center-weighted metering (60/40)
and spot metering.
Metering range:
EV 0 to 21 for matrix and (at 100 ISO center-weighted;
EV 2 to 21 for spot with f/1.4 metering. lens):
Exposure meter:
Activated by lightly pressing the shutter release
button; stays on for approx 16 sec after finger leaves
button.
Exposure modes:
Programmed auto-multi, shutter-priority auto, aperture
priority auto and manual.
Multiple exposure control:
Via lever
Exposure compensation:
Use exposure compensation dial within +/- 2 EV
range in 1/3 EV steps.
Auto exposure lock:
By sliding the AE-L lever while the meter is on.
Shutter:
Electromagnetically controlled vertical-travel
focal-plane shutter.
Shutter release:
By motor trigger.
Shutter speeds:
Lithium niobate oscillator-controlled speeds from
1/8000 sec to 30 sec; stepless in programmed auto
and aperture-priority auto exposure modes; 1 EV steps
in shutter priority auto and manual exposure modes;
long exposure at B or T setting.
Viewfinder:
Interchangeable high-eyepoint; 0.70x magnification
with 50mm lens at infinity; 100% frame coverage.
Eyepoint:
22mm approx.
Eyepiece shutter:
Built in.
Focusing screen:
Interchangeable Nikon advanced B-type screen BriteView
screen.
Viewfinder information:
Focus indications, frame counter, exposure mode,
metering system, shutter speed, aperture, exposure
compensation, electronic analogue display (in Manual
mode, shows relationship between metered exposure
and current aperture/shutter setting over a range
of +/- 2 EV in 1/3 EV steps), exposure compensation
mark and flash-ready are all shown in LCD readout.
Film speed range:
ISO 25 to 5000 for DX-coded film; ISO 6 to 6400
in 1/3 steps for manual setting.
Film speed setting:
At DX position, automatically set to speed of DX-coded
film; manual setting available.
Film loading:
Film automatically advances to first frame when
shutter release button is depressed once.
Film advance:
In single-frame shooting mode, film automatically
advances one frame when shutter is released; in continuous
high, continuous low and continuous silent shooting
modes, shots are taken as long as shutter release
button is depressed; high speed 5.7 fps; low 3.4 fps,
silent 1.0 fps.
Film rewind:
Manual or automatic. Manual by turning crank; rewind
stops automatically when film is rewound.
Frame counter:
Additive type; showing in the viewfinder and on
the camera.
Self-timer:
Electronically controlled; approx 10 seconds; blinking
LED indicates self-timer operation; cancelable.
Depth-of-field preview button:
Provides visual verification of depth-of-field
in aperture-priority auto or manual exposure modes.
Reflex mirror:
Automatic, instant-return type with lockup facility.
Camera back:
Hinged; interchangeable with Nikon Multi-Control
Back MF-23, World Time Data Back MF-22 or 250 exposure
magazine back MF-24.
Accessory shoe:
Standard ISO-type hotshoe contact; ready light
contact, TTL flash contact, monitor contact.
Flash sync control:
Normal sync, normal with red-eye, slow sync and
rear curtain sync provided.
Flash synchronization:
In programmed auto or aperture-priority auto, shutter
operates from 1/250 to 1/60 sec in normal sync or
1/250 to 30 sec in slow sync; in shutter-priority
auto or manual exposure mode, shutter fires at speed
set, and when set from 1/250 to 1/8000 sec, shutter
is automatically set to 1/250 sec.
TTL multi sensor:
Five segment multi sensor used for TTL auto flash
control.
Automatic balanced fill-flash:
Possible when AF Nikkor or AI-P Nikkor lens is
used with Nikon dedicated Speed lights.
Flash recommended/ ready light:
Lights up in green when flash is recommended and
no speed light is attached; when speed light is attached,
lights up in red when Nikon dedicated speed light
is ready to fire, or blinks to warn of insufficient
light for a correct exposure.
Number of 36 exposure film rolls per
set of fresh batteries:
Battery
20oC
-10oC
MB-23
Alkaline (LR-6)
90
15
NiCd (MN-20)
150
80
MB-21
Alkaline (LR-6)
90
15
NiCd
70
35
MB-20
Alkaline (LR-6)
30
5
Power source:
Nikon High speed battery pack MB-21 six alkaline
or NiCd of AA-type; Batterypack MB-20 four alkaline
of AA-type; Batterypack MB-23 six alkaline of AA-type
or MN-20.
Battery check:
Sufficient if LCD is visible in the viewfinder
then lightly pressing shutter release button, an remain
on for approx 18 sec after finger is removed from
the button.
Dimensions (W x H x D):
169 x 157 x 77mm (MB-23)
169 x 139 x 77mm (MB-21)
196 x 118 x 77mm (MB-20).
Weight (body only):
1400g (MB-23)
1280g (MB-21)
1090g (MB-20).
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13.1 Flash with the F4
13. Q. How does one use Nikon's
advanced flash with the F4?
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14.1 Modifications to the F4 in Production
14. Q. What modifications
have been made in the F4 since its introduction?
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15. Where the F4 is Made
Q. How can I tell when and where my F4 was made?
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16. Q. Could I use a F4 screen
on a F3 ?
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17. What is a good back-up body
for an F4?
A. Two good choices are the F3, the 8008/s, and the 6006.
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Q. Can I take my F4 under water?
Q. How well does the F4 function as a camera for sports
photography?
Q. How does the F4 compare to the N90/s?
Feature N90s/F90X F4s
Matrix metering segments 8 5
3D matrix metering (with D lenses that give distance) yes no
Matrix and center-weighted meter EV range -1 : 21 0 : 21
Spot meter EV range 3 : 21 2 : 21
Mercury switch that detects horizontal or vertical
camera position used to change matrix metering
from horizontal to vertical pattern no yes
Matrix metering works with AI lenses no yes
Center-weighted metering pattern 75/25 60/40
5 segment TTL off the film "matrix-like" flash meter yes no
Center-weighted TTL off the film flash meter no yes
Autofocus module AMD246 AMD200
Number of pixels in autofocus CCD 246 200
Cross-type autofocus (can autofocus on objects with
either horizontal or vertical details) yes no
Horizontal autofocus module (has trouble with objects
that only have vertical details) no yes
Wide area autofocus option (in addition to spot AF) yes no
Autofocus speed faster fast
Focus tracking - max frames per second 4.1 3.4
FP High-speed flash sync (1/250 to 1/4000) yes no
Slow flash sync (below 1/60) yes no
Red-eye reduction yes no
3D multi-sensor balanced fill flash (SB-25 or SB-26) yes no
Monitor pre-flash (part of prior feature) yes no
With SB-26, flash failure gives read out of exposure
error (like you were 2/3 ev under exposed) yes no
Flash bracketing (with databack/link) yes no
Minimum manually settable shutter speed 30 seconds 4 secs
Exposure compensation range +-5 ev +-2 ev
Can mount old F (non-AI) lenses (stopped down
metering) no yes
Mirror lock-up no yes
Make AF lock button lock exposure and AF both databack/link yes
250 exposure back option no yes
Replaceable finder no yes
6X full-frame high-magnification finder option no yes
Waist-level finder option no yes
Action finder option (arm's-length finder) no yes
Optional back to leave leader out at end of rewind no yes
Multiple exposure databack/link yes
DX decoded ISO film speed displayed? yes no
Highest continuous frames per second (all systems "go") 4.3 5.7
Continuous "silent" mode (CS) about 1 frame per second no yes
Lithium batteries usable (official Nikon position) yes no
Rechargeable nicad cartridge battery option (MB-23 with
MN-20 and dedicated charger) no yes
Number of optional replaceable focusing screens 2 12
Built-in diopter correction in finder (+1 to -3) no yes
Program-hi exposure mode no yes
Flexible program (allows you to control f-stop to
shutter speed relationship within programmed modes)yes no
Vari-program (7 variations on "programmed AE" mode) yes no
Computer interface (to Sharp Wizard) yes no
Databack (MF-23 and MF-24) can print date/time, shutter
speed, aperture and exposure compensation values
***between*** frames (other databacks can print
various information, but only on your picture) no yes
Manual rewind (as an alternative to power rewind) no yes
Variable self-timer yes no
Two-shot self-timer no no
Vertical shutter release optional(MB-10) yes
Viewfinder coverage 92% 100%
Shutter duty cycle 50,000 200,000
Rubber-armored no yes
Weight 26.6 oz 45.1 oz
I'm worried that if I accidentally hit a table with my
camera, I might damage it (the camera) yes no
I'm worried that if I accidentally hit a table with my
camera, I might damage it (the table) no yes
I need to carry a heavy, blunt weapon with me to beat
the crap out of people, but the police have told
me that if I'm carrying a baseball bat, I had
damn well better be carrying a baseball glove and
ball as well or they will charge me with carrying
a deadly weapon no yes
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19. Home Pages and E-Mail addresses of Professional
Photographers who have used the Nikon F4 Camera
Moose Peterson
http://www.av.qnet.com/~moose395/
Moose's E-Mail address
Galen Rowell
http://www.mountainlight.com/
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20. BIBLIOGRAPHY OF BOOKS for Users of the F4 NIKON
CAMERA
Books about Nikon Cameras
INSTRUCTION BOOKS
Books on Photographic Techniques Written by Photographers
Who Use Nikon Cameras, especially the F4
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21. Where can I get my F4 repaired in the rare
instance when it doesn't work?
22.How to tell if you are overinvested in your
involvement with Nikon cameras.
23. What does Moose Peterson carry in his Camera
Bag?
Moose's
Camera Bag
for details.
24. How to find out how many times the shutter
of your F4 has been fired: The F4 stores a count of the number of times the
shutter has been fired. However, this information is accessible only by
an authorized Nikon repair service which will have whatever equipment is
required to access the information. This information is worth having,
especially if you are about to purchase a used F4.
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